In this paragraph the auther was trying to tell you how much things have changed since th last time the character had been to Zadaa. He wants to show you that all is well, but tells it's not so you don't get your hopes up. He's trying to get across to everybody that things can change for the better, can then turn around to be back where it all started. The idea is that a desert can change into an oasis but still can be a dangerous place. Be aware of your suroundings cuase nomatter where you are you can still be in danger.